Kota Bharu, Kelantan, 22 June 2019 |
This is a photo that came after many that I had seen before, because this market is very famous, especially on a photographic level, and just pronouncing its name causes chills to every photographer: Pasar Siti Khadijah, in Kota Bharu, in the region of Kelantan.
A joy
for the eyes and a triumph of colors.
I've
photographed it several times, before
and after the purchase of 10mm, and things change.
Imagine a large cylinder with a very large round plan, with four floors each faceted in different colors, up to the ceiling open to the falling natural light falling
from above. And below, on the ground floor, an exhibition of all kinds of fruit
and vegetables, with all their tones.
Its name is derived from Khadija bint Khuwaylid, the wife of the Prophet Muhammad, who was a famous merchant at the time.
This
market, built in 1985, is famous for two
reasons. The first is aesthetic, thanks to its cylinder structure and the
liveliness of colors of the walls, with the possibility of leaning over from the
four levels, which make it one of the most photographed places of Malaysia.
The
second reason is socio-anthropological, as this is an almost all female market,
and the sellers are mainly Siam mix women, from neighboring Thailand.
Much has been written about this place, and it is often used as an anthropological and cultural paradigm on the strength of women and, above all, to contradict the frequent stereotype in Malaysia for which men have the knowledge necessary to control women, more inclined to physical pleasure: “akal” and “nafsu”, knowledge and lust.
But, in a
very interesting essay “Bewitching Women, Pious Men”, a book which collects a series
of essays by American anthropologists on gender differences in Asia, there is
precisely a chapter on this aspect of Malaysia, citing Pasar Siti Khadijah as
the physical and symbolic place to
proof exactly the
opposite, that it is women who control business and money, thanks to a willpower
superior to man.
Money is
another form of nafsu, of lust, and women and wives manage it more
efficiently.
Therefore, entering this powerful structure, it really seems to enter the fort of matriarchy in a deeply masculine society such as the Malaysian one. And the fact that it is also the kingdom of colors, adds even more charm to this place.
Wherever I go, as I wrote about the market in Bangladesh, I want to visit the markets, the most interesting places for me to photograph, because they are crowded, everything happens in every direction and every sense is solicited, from sight to smells.
It's an exercise that I always recommend to those who love street photography, because they train to have quick reflexes and a quick sense of composition; and from a spiritual point of view, it strengthens the presence to oneself which is the cornerstone of some teachings that refer to Gurdjieff.
Photographing in these
spaces makes us aware of how slow thinking is and how our perceptions sleep in
most of our lives. But that's another matter.
So, if you come to Malaysia one day and find yourself passing through Kota Bharu, ask around where the Siti Khadijah market is. You will find me there.
All the photos were taken on 3 August 2018 and 22 June 2019
“Bewitching Women, Pious Men – Gender and Body Politics in Southeast Asia” by Aihwa Ong & Michael G. Peletz (University of California Press, 1995)
Recommended song: Nora “Joget Kelantan”
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ReplyDeleteππ
DeleteI love all the photos.
ReplyDeleteCantik!
I want to add 1 point.
"Ore Kelate comel-comel."
Thanks a lot π
DeleteAmboi! Amboi!
ReplyDeleteπ
DeleteNegeri Cik Siti Wan Kembang...Taman Serendah Sekebun Bunga...Serambi Mekah...those are most popular nickname for Klatae (Kelantan)
ReplyDelete"Sampai Kelantan Mesti Kahwin"is the famous quotes among people in Kelantan for the outsiders (oghae-lua) means...you will fall in love with Kelantan for the first sight and feeling comfortable in every ways like home...
Kelantan woman is a good financial minister...no doubt...they know how to make money...and use money,tooπππ
So power to women ππ
DeleteIt is not about power BUT trustworthy and reliable...Begitu..!!!
DeleteTangan yang menghayun buai, mampu menggoncang dunia.
ReplyDeleteHidup tanpa wanita seperti taman tanpa bunga.
Nice photos, nice story.
Really thanks...
Delete